Going on a boat trip across the Five Lands, we consistently landed in tiny picturesque towns between Portovenere and Monterosso al Mare. Vernazza turned out to be similar to its "neighbors" in Cingue Terre: the same colorful, overlapping houses, narrow streets that seemed even closer because of the dense flows of tourists, bright boats and snow-white yachts in the harbor. And at the same time, Vernazza differed from other "five earths" in some special charm, charm and harsh beauty (and a railway tunnel cut through the mountain). Looking at the blue umbrellas of the "rock" cafe, which offered wonderful views of the emerald vineyards on the slopes, on the one hand, and the clear waters of the turquoise-blue sea, on the other, I imagined myself in paradise and felt what a real Italian dolce vita is: Vernazza and Cinquiterra in general! That was certainly the case in the serene July of the pre-Soviet era